How do you clean a solenoid....???
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Sad To Say I Don't Have a Life
I do this stuff on the weekends too -
I usually take out the plunger and scrub it with alcohol on a rag. Then I put the alcohol soaked rag on the end of a screwdriver, stuff it into the solenoid base and twist.But I'm trying, Ringo. I'm trying real hard... to be the Shepherd.
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Dirty solenoids can be sticky, I suppose...But I'm trying, Ringo. I'm trying real hard... to be the Shepherd.
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There have only been three conditions that I have found, with solenoids.
1) The plunger is magnetized, and it needs replacing. Increasing spring tension, or tapping on the plunger may help for a short period of time, but it's no fix. Replace it or you'll be back.
2) Developer or iron particles have gotten drawn into the solenoid because of the magnetism. Cleaning, in the way that Jules suggested will solve this problem if you can get the plunger separated from the coil.
3) A green tech, or just a tech that should have known better has oiled your solenoid. Oiling the plunger is the worst thing that you can do to it. Again cleaning in the way Jules suggested will solve this problem. Then strangle the tech that's oiling your solenoids. He's probably also oiling your magnetic clutches, too.
Ooops. I thought of a fourth 4) Canon & Sharp for a while used a foam pad to dampen the click of the solenoid. If that solenoid was heavily used the heat & pressure generated would force some of the adhesive through the foam pad. That adhesive would stick the solenoid down after the coil shut off, then would release slowly. The commonly accepted practice for this situation is to remove the foam pad and any vestiges of the adhesive, then cut an appropriately size piece of black vinyl tape to do the sound damping. Or you can just let it click. Some people like that clackety clack of solenoids. =^..^=Last edited by blackcat4866; 12-17-2009, 03:03 PM.If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=Comment
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I hate it when some fly by night tech goes around oiling stuff instead of taking it apart and cleaning it...But I'm trying, Ringo. I'm trying real hard... to be the Shepherd.
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solenoids 101
dudes... these are some excellent tips... thankfully I never oiled a solenoid...Sad To Say I Don't Have a Life
I do this stuff on the weekends tooComment
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One more thing.
Most solenoids these days do not have a throw adjustment. There is a spring to adapt for any excess travel.
Back in the analog days every solenoid was adjustable, and required a very specific throw (or travel). If there is not a specific adjustment procedure, here is the general rule:
Adjust the length of the throw to the shortest amount of travel that produces the desired movement. When there is an E-clip on the plunger allow 0.5mm clearance between the clip and the coil when fully depressed. The clip shouldn't strike the coil if there is some other external stop on the guide/lever/whatever.
The idea here is that the deeper the plunger resides in the coil the stronger and quicker the action.
I don't remember who taught me this, but it has worked well as a general guide. =^..^=If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=Comment
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